Beyond its breathtaking beaches and wild shoreline, this island has a exceptional food tradition, deeply rooted in both soil and ocean. Starting with world-famous Jersey Royal new potatoes to shellfish sweeter and softer than those tasted elsewhere, Jersey's bounty is unmatched. The thing that thrills many most, though, is how island producers and producers are embracing sustainable farming, and in doing so reimagining the island's culinary destiny with creativity and dedication.
Last month, I was fortunate to lead a discussion at a gathering, and cook a welcome meal for all speakers, alongside a motivating organizer. Of course, scallops had to be on the menu, because they represent Jersey at their finest: subtle, juicy and bursting of the ocean.
These mollusks appear as the ultimate symbol of the island's culinary evolution: succulent, full and regenerative by nature, filtering and cleaning the water while contributing to create coastal habitats. Both farmed and, crucially, diver-caught, they are one of the most sustainable proteins we can eat. Yet even, those were raised on the island, don't eat the roes – an often-seen habit, unfortunately. Even more reason to champion those rosy tidbits, that are much too tasty to throw out. Whipped into butter, they turn into pure luxury: melt over scallops, mix into risotto or simply slather on toasted slices.
Scallops may be a little expensive, though, so I've created this method to transform a single scallop into a stunning appetizer (or a few into a satiating main course) and, by blending their roe into smoky spice butter and baking the scallops in the half-shells with cherry tomatoes and crushed garlic, potential waste becomes a delicacy.
This spirit of reinvention is central to this approach, that has launched an award offering support to innovators with backing, mentorship and entry to a retail platform. Evaluated by a panel of respected culinary experts, the prize is to be presented at an forthcoming event. It's focused on backing ideas that can assist the agricultural networks flourish, from soil to sea, and I can't think of an inspiring location for this dialogue to start than Jersey.
Shellfish Roasted in Roe Butter with Cherry Tomatoes and Crushed Garlic
Serves six as a starter or two as a main course
Six roe-on scallops in the shell
Eighteen cherry tomatoes, halved
Six cloves of garlic, crushed
Three fresh red chillies (eg jalapeno), split lengthways, or 1 pinch chilli flakes, or to preference (if desired)
50 grams butter
One teaspoon smoked or sweet paprika
Sea salt and pepper, to taste
Lemon slices, to serve
Some sea asparagus, saltwort or 6 tiny gherkin slices, to decorate (optional)
Clean the scallops, removing the roe from every and leaving the remaining part of the scallop fixed to the shell (request the fishmonger to handle this for you, if necessary). Place six cherry tomato halves in each half-shell with the equivalent of crushed garlic and half a red chilli, if using.
Transfer the eggs in the jug of a hand blender (I find it's the most effective tool for blending small amounts), include the butter and paprika, and blitz until creamy. Distribute the mixture among the half-shells, ensuring every shellfish is well covered in the butter.
Preheat the grill until it's very hot, then put the shellfish under the flame for 6-8 minutes, until charred and sizzling. Serve immediately, garnished with if desired samphire, herbs, a slice of gherkin and/or a splash of the gherkin brine or some lemon.
